Tuesday 29 May 2012

Absolute Peru

Peru was one of the countries in South America that we were looking forward to the most, and it did not disappoint. We had organised a tour for this leg of the journey and our friend Nath met us for the three weeks of action. We got lucky with a great group of people on the tour and it was really nice to spend more than just 2 or 3 days with people, even if it made the goodbyes sadder.

The tour started in Lima where we went a bit crazy on sushi and ceviche (fish cooked by the acid in lemon juice - delicious). We then moved on to Pisco, where we enjoyed a few Pisco sours - a local cocktail. From here, we headed to an desert oasis where James, Nathan and some others did some buggying and sand boarding through the dunes.


Our next stop was Nasca, home of the mysterious Nasca lines. Here, we took a short joy flight (in a very small plane) to get a god's eye view of the ginormous shapes made by a civilization over 2000 years ago.

The Hummingbird

From Nasca, we headed to a colonial town of Arequipa with the beautiful backdrop of Volcano Misty.

It was time to do some bird watching so we set off to Colca Canyon where the Andean condors can be best spotted. Nearby to hear is where the locals like to play and beat gringos at high altitude soccer.

Between Peru and Bolivia is the largest lake in South America - lake Titicaca. It was here that we said goodbye to hotels and spent the night with a local family on a small farm. Our family showed us how to dance and how to harvest beans.

Finally, it was time for the main attraction - the inca trail and Machu Picchu! Our group contained 12 people doing the trail and 24 porters and cooks to look after us and carry all our gear. These guys were amazing, our oldest porter was 62 and he did the trail, carrying 25 kilos on his back, in about half the time as us. The trail and the majestic Machu Picchu was worth every step (sore knees and all). We even made the extra effort to climb Huanapicchu mountain (this is the steep mountain in the background of many Machu Picchu photos) on the fourth day. This extra climb was short but steep and after three days of walking and not much sleep, It was also the most challenging. The view at top was spectacular, would definitely recommend it to anyone heading to Machu Picchu.

Day 2 of inca trail - walking uphill in the rain

Day 3 of the inca trail

The view from the top of huanapicchu

Despite exhaustion, we still decided to try white water rafting the following day. It was a pretty tame run but It was enough for me - it was still scary when I fell in the rapids for 30 seconds.

Guinea pig for dinner, it tasted alright!

Our final stop of the tour was the amazon jungle where we waded through mud and spotted some amazing plants, bugs and animals.

Nathan being an Amazonian monkey
The largest rodents in the world!
 

Friday 4 May 2012

The World's Most Dangerous Road

One of the things that many backpackers like tick off the list in South America is the World's Most Dangerous Road in La Paz, Bolivia. I hadn't planned on doing it, but as we got closer I somehow convinced myself that it was a good idea. So we booked it in!

 

The ride started with a couple of easy sections on a paved road prior to reaching the famous 'Death Road'. Unfortunately our group had a casualty in these early stages with a young nurse losing control of her bike and breaking her collarbone. It was not a sight you wanted to see at the start of the day like this. Luckily, it was the first and last injury.

 

The World's Most Dangerous Road (WMDR) is a road connecting La Paz to the Coca growing region of Coroico, it was built in the 1930's when Coca Cola sourced Coca from this region. It got its infamous name and international recognition when the Inter-American Development Bank dubbed it the WMDR in 1995. It is estimated that 200 to 300 people died on the road per annum when it was in peak use. Today, it is really only used by gringo tourists, like us, on mountain bikes as a new safer road was built in 2006 which, luckily, the cars, buses and trucks stick to.





After the ride James and I decided we needed more adrenalin pumping so we opted to do the zip lines across the valley. The highest one being 200 metres above the valley floor. This was great fun and actually relieved the stress I had from doing the ride.

 

Typical mode of transport for Boliva - the roof!

Getting ready for take off

Superman coming in for landing
 

After zip lining we were ready for lunch, which was at a local animal refuge. We ate our lunch to the sounds of monkeys scurrying over the roof and squawking Macaus. We decided to stay the night here with a few of the other riders and enjoyed some crazy moments with the animals.

James and Mr. Bean

Squirrel monkey trying to steal the Macau's food

A spider monkey takes me by the hand and leads me around

James giving a spider monkey some fruit

Two crazy squirrel monkeys continuing their fight on top of me